Sunday, April 15, 2007

Colmar, Home of the Statue of Liberty Artist


Today we woke up in Strasbourg and ended up in Colmar, about 30 minutes south. Alsace, we learned from our guide, is a distinctly proud identity. "People here say they are Alsacien first, then French, or in the years during the wars, German." This territory has changed hands many times, but now is firmly French, yet the architecture reminds me of the land across the Rhine. Half-timbered houses are everywhere, as are Winstubs, or wine bars, and lots of Fisher beer. It was a summer like day, with temps in the 80s, and the park was full of strollers, loungers and kids in strollers. So many women here have small kids or are pregnant...I was told that France is bucking the trend of low birthrates and has more kids than anywhere in Europe.

We visited the home of Bartholde, he was the artist who designed the Statue of Liberty. He was born into a wealthy Colmar family and lived here until he was one--still considered a native since his house was given to the city and now houses a floor full of fascinating Statue of Liberty memorabilia. We saw four rough drafts of the lady...one without the familiar crown of stars, one holding something other than a torch. Then we saw the paintings from when the head alone was exhibited in Paris, before the giant statue was chopped up into 250 barrels and put in a ship to the US.

It's our last night here...and of course, like lunch, dinner was a fancy, elegant affair, with Pinot Gris, the Alsatien white wine, more of the famous white asparagus that is in season throughout this month, and tonight, monkfish and scallops. We just barely had room, some of us dropped out early during dinner, we're all thinking about our 4:30 am wake-up call. Then we'll drive five hours to Paris to board our planes home to the US. It will be good to be back, I just hope this snow storm doesn't mess things up!

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