Walking the Ramparts in Obernai, Alsace

Today we got up early, it was a fitful night's sleep and these German-style duvets that only cover a single bed leave big gaps where cold air slips in. I glanced at the clock at 4 am, then at 7 got the wake-up call. John Blanchette and I strolled the entire circle that makes up the ramparts of this town, Obernai, in Alsace.

The hotel here, the Coeur d'Alsace, is four star, and they are excited about expanding soon to build a pool, a hammam (Turkish steam room) and more deluxe suites. The manager told us last night over dinner that the project has been tough since they had to get approval in Paris every time they uncovered a new 15th century stone. "It's not easy trying to expand a hotel on an ancient rampart," he said, "But this summer we begin construction."

Dinner again was first rate. Magret de Carnard, rare duck that looks like beef, and our first taste of France escargot....or as my ex-wife used to say, 'butter and garlic delivery vehicles.'

We drive to the five-sided fortress of Neuf Brisch today, an entire town encompassed by walls shaped like a giant star. Nobody ever was able to penetrate the walls, they were designed by the great military architect Vauban, who also built the castle we saw on Wednesday.