A Second City Where Arts and Dining Come In First

Logan and Brown are the two last names of a pair of famous chefs known far and wide in Wellington, a city of about 180,000 where arts, culture and especially food are at the top of their game. The pair opened in a converted former bank building on Cuba Street, the downtown's most lively thoroughfare lined with cafes, clubs, art galleries and of course more fine restaurants. In 2009, Logan Brown was voted the restaurant of the year by Cuisine magazine for all of NZ.

We joined Rebecca Mitchell, a city marketing manager, and Stacey Turnbull, who curates and promotes City Gallery, at a table at Logan Brown and we talked about what makes this second city the center of arts and culture in New Zealand. "There is more professional theater and art galleries, plus lots of live music here, helped by the two universities and a population that loves eating out and going out very much," they told us.

Rebecca, 26, confessed that her budget for fine dining and fun is high consuming most of her paycheck, and in fact that is the topic that's on many people's minds here these days. The cost of living is going up while many employers have signed contracts with no raises for up to three years.

Thing are expensive here--takeaway coffee is $3.50 or $4, wrapped sandwiches are $8-10, and a special dinner menu at Logan Brown's bistro is $49.50 per person. The dishes, like the turkey confit, meltingly delicious meat on top of savory squash, and a side of tiny 2" portobello mushrooms, combined with the ambience of the intimate octagonal building's interior was lovely.

It was a Monday night, and the place was filled up with locals eating and drinking and sitting at the bar that's made of glass and filled with living sea creatures like crayfish. "Some people joke about Welliwood, a silly name that began when mega-director Peter Jackson began his series of blockbuster movies that seemed to include half of the city as extras.

More excitement is promised when Jackson begins filming The Hobbit at the Weta studios next to the ocean in Seatoun neighborhood. Despite the big names, the director cherishes the low-key nature of his fellow Wellingtonians, and that's why he keeps making great movies right here, in New Zealand's second city.

You Can Come Home Again...To Villa Margarita

One common refrain heard time and time again is, 'well see you again, we've gotta get together again, let's make plans to do this again' but how many times do you really do that?

The complication of geography, meeting great people in faraway countries makes you know full well you'll never set eyes on them again. Still, we say this, and sometimes, rarely, it comes true.

Cindy and I have just settled into Villa Margarita, where we stayed during our trip to North Island NZ in 2007. One of the trip's highlights was a long night with a warm and fun couple named Mark and Margarita Owen, who run this guest house set high on rolling hills with views of Cook sound and sweeping views of green mountains. When we began planning this trip, we asked that this spectacular lodging be included and here we are.

Meeting Mark at the airport, it felt so great to be back here with them and to catch up with his busy life with Margarita and their three daughters. The eldest daughter Carly had just finished an acting gig in The Bridge to Terabitha in 2007, and now, Stephania the youngest takes her turn in the upcoming film of the Alice Seybold novel, The Lovely Bones. Wow, two young actresses under one roof.

Our day today will take us to Wellington's Te Papa Tongarewa New Zealand Museum and tonight to an acclaimed restaurant called Logan Brown. Tomorrow we'll enjoy the Villa's Cuban Food, and the hospitality of these dear friends. It's great, great to be back in this green and pleasant land.