Driving the Austral Road in Patagonia

Here is a ´´nuevo entrar´´ written from El Pangue, an eco-lodge in the rainforest of Patagonia Chile. This is a rainy and wonderful place, outside it is very green and horses are grazing on the lawn. There is a small hydro plant on the grounds where they make their own electricity and guests stay in small cabanas built of native wood. Yesterday we drove for six hours on most of the length of the Austral road, the only road in the 100,000 square miles of this part of Chile. That´s it no more roads just THE road.

It is a rutty, bumpy, boulder-filled road, but until 1982 there was not even that. The only way to get from here to Puerto Montt was by ferry boat. There are plans to pave this legendary and crucial roadway and already they are widening it and moving the tree stumps and boulders to the side, but the job is overwhelming and they have to heat the concrete with wood fires.

We stopped for yerba mate tea along the road, it is taken in a tiny cup with a bong-like metal stem that goes down into the powdery, sugary tea and you get just a few sips. All you need since down here the Yerba is strong with special herbs that keep you alert and ready to face more time driving the Austral...just hope a big old truck isn´t coming to meet us as we crest that tall hill!